Health Spa Reviews - Indigo Fields - Preciously Pretty Country Retreat

   

Review by Carien Wandrag

Our gorgeous country of tangible contrasts and its hospitable people always inspires a surge of heart-warming devotion in me. As a city girl, one of my favourite parts of our country, and one that I find eternally mysterious, is the KwaZulu Natal Midlands.

Have you noticed when driving from the City of Sugar and Spice, how you can almost visibly see the dense coastal atmosphere dissolve into delicate Midland's air? For me, KZN-ers are particularly down to earth and friendly and, it may be my imagination, their warmth and charm seems to become more intense the wispier and cooler the air gets. They seem to live a vastly superior quality of life to most of us mere mortals. I'd love to bottle this lifestyle and save it for bad mood days.

Indigo Fields, in Nottingham Road, is a prime example of this life. This is a true family owned and run venture. Their ancestral roots are firmly established in the area, however they have only fairly recently re-escaped the rat-race of Jo'burg. The family's passion for what they have created, and are still busy growing, is clear in the fact that everyone is involved - parents, grandparents and children; all lend a hand and it would be hard for me to draw a line between each individual's role and initiatives. There is a balance of skills and talents that I feel fortunate to have stumbled upon.

The quaint, thatched roof guest house, health and coffee shop, small art gallery, nursery and, of course, spa, all rest on top of a rise on the 40 ha property, a tree-canopied lane enticing you in. Though I was told it overlooks Michaelhouse, I am glad to report that there are almost no buildings to interfere with the serene, unspoiled views. You are, however, guaranteed to see lots of colourful cows dotting the surrounding hills, their moo-ing the most prevalent sound in the area.

You can watch out for cheep-cheep birds propelling themselves forward, peeping with each downward flap of their wings. You may even spot a heron sneakily hunting in the glorious front garden, competing for attention with the statue of the three cheetahs, protectively guarding the trademark lavender gardens. Or perhaps you'll get lucky and catch sight of the illusive Reedbuck or hear the jackals' calls at night. And if you watch for long enough, you may notice a bird of prey swoop down from its perch in the vineyard.

Yes, you read correctly, a vineyard. A few estate owners in the Midlands are currently experimenting with certain grape varietals, and Paul and Jennifer, under the expert guidance of a well-known viticulturist, have planted a small Merlot patch, more as a novelty than for commercial purposes. The 2-month old grapevines seem to be flourishing and at this rate, will most likely produce wine in the projected 4 to 5 years. If I understood correctly, the idea is for the limited edition wine to be bottled and labelled for individual buyers' private use. What fun!

With this as your Indigo Fields backdrop, it is no surprise to discover the clever planning of the spa's lay-out. This is a spa that carefully and exclusively caters for small groups of people who want to get away from crowds. They specifically offer a haven for those who want to leave their children at home and have a proper rest. It is perfectly geared for romantic weekends, mother-daughter outings who want to sneak away from family responsibilities for a few days, friends who enjoy the outdoors and want a base to explore the history-rich region from, innovative book clubs and team building sessions for small workgroups.

It offers two types of accommodation. The B&B is part of the main building and consists of three spacious yet cosy rooms. For a lovely twist to a weekend, book when there is a concert being hosted or spend Easter being pampered. There is also one self-catering house (they refer to it as a "cottage", but that, in my opinion, would give the false impression that it is very small, which it's not!). This is set slightly apart from the main building, with its own captivating views from the downstairs living area, kitchen and large porch. It is very well-equipped and has four bedrooms, each with its own bathroom. I know that it is tacky to write about price, but I suggest that you if you are looking to book for a group excursion, enquire about this very inexpensive option...

The treatment rooms are equally resourcefully positioned. The River boma and the Ou Hout boma are carefully hidden from sight and quite a distance from one another. Each only becomes visible once the special purpose 4x4 "taxi" deposits you at their respective wooden dismounting platforms and walkways. Each of these makes for a wonderfully secretive hideaway - the River boma with its deck built over a stream; the Ou Hout boma veiled in a thicket of indigenous trees. Receiving first my head massage and facial in one boma and then later my full body massage in the other, I felt like I was the lead actress in an Out of Africa movie. I felt especially colonial prancing around in my gown all day and being zooted around on the game drive styled 4x4! It is such fun, it should be illegal!

The steam room, Jacuzzi and scrub room are all part of the main building and each have doors leading onto an outside deck and all overlook the sprawling front garden and valley beyond. The slow pace between the treatments and the sheer opulence of lavender in the treatments is calming to the point of leaving comatose guests floating from one soothing treatment to the next. In between treatments, you can visit the pool area, which is also where lunch is served, all enclosed in a fairytale garden, where you can nap on a deck chair or, like us, over indulge in delicious homemade quiches and a selection of home-baked cakes to die for.

At sunset, I took a stroll to the vineyard with a glass of Port in hand. I explored the numerous interesting statues that are beautifully scattered all around the gardens and stood for a long time simply absorbing the exceptionally vibrant colours of the flowers and butterflies, ablaze in the late-sun glow. Here the evening quietly descends with the unique sound of a gentle wind blowing over open space, carrying the smell of pure air on its breath. The day cools down gradually but distinctly, tenderly urging you to go and snuggle in the percale-covered, down duvet. Remind yourself that in the morning there is no rush to get up early and that it will probably be misty, completely justifying a sleep in.

The journey to the warm welcome at and peacefulness of Indigo Fields, starts with a rutted gravel country road - enjoy and try to forgive it, knowing that at the end lies the truthful promise of making this short bumpy ride worth your while. Heed the sweetly worded markers along the way, encouraging you to persist, switch off your aircon, open your window and inhale Mother Nature in her full cow-dunged glory!

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