I needed to have a weekend rest out of Johannesburg - we all know that the year is almost over and our faculties suffer the toll to put in that extra bit before the finishing line. I was offered a refresher for the home straight, an opportunity to make a break for The Coach House near Tzaneen. I'd never been there before and my lasting impression is that in this richly fertile, subtropical part of our extraordinary country even a grain of sand may sprout into a cycad or some abundantly bearing fruit tree! …And the views! Banhoek beware - this part of the Limpopo Province is blessed with dramatic mountains boasting every possible shade of green that drop away into multicoloured valleys that will give any Cape region a run for its money!
It was a fairly long drive for a 2-night stay. Prepare for a good 4 and a half hour trip from Johannesburg, if you factor in traffic, stops, toll gates (plenty of those!) and, in the mountain passes, single lane, windy roads with the strong possibility of forestry trucks. Many of the foreign tourists that I encountered at the hotel seem to make this a stopover as part of their tour of the Kruger Park and surrounds. It was noticeable how many foreign guests were staying at the hotel, compared to locals. The hotel has been in existence, in various forms, since the late 19th century and perhaps its conservative, European style, charms overseas visitors into feeling at home. It is a 5-star establishment with many accolades, however, if you are used to modern-day luxury and service, I caution you to be more patient and to expect, although well-equipped, old-school interiors.
The Agatha Spa at the hotel is only a few years old and was added to offer an even greater variety of activities to hotel guests. The downstairs Sensorium is an open-plan area incorporating a gym, heated pool and restaurant. This entire space is glass-fronted and has been strategically designed to completely capitalise on the unbelievable views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. If that sounds like too much activity for you, simply lounge about on a deck chair, inside or out, whilst soaking up the balmy subtropical climate and fresh mountain air.
The spa menu is fairly comprehensive and has most familiar treatments making use of the well-known product ranges Dermalogica and Environ. I had only 2 treatments which lasted for about 2 hours - a just-what-I-needed full body massage followed by a skin-quenching facial. Both relaxed me into the weekend, which wasn't so much about pampering as it was about getting away completely. I suspect that this is what most people do when they go to the hotel. The spa is a true complementary means to unwind in a backdrop filled with birdlife, walks and historic sightseeing spots.
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